Do plant-based sunscreens work?

Dear ‘Burning’ to find out, 

There are plenty of creams, lotions, and sprays out there designed to keep your skin from sizzling in the sun, but learning more about their ingredients can help you decide which one is your best defence against a sunny offense. Para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) was one of the first chemical sunscreens to hit the market but has been pulled from the shelves for safety reasons, including skin irritation. However, emerging research suggests that a variety of other plant extracts could be used as sunscreen agents. Read on to soak up some more rays of knowledge.  

What are the different types of sunscreens? 

Sunscreens generally come in two forms—physical and chemical—and protect your skin from ultraviolet (UV) rays from the sun. Physical sunscreens, also known as mineral sunscreens, contain zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. These ingredients reflect and scatter UV rays away from the skin. Chemical sunscreens contain compounds that absorb UV rays like a sponge. These rays are then converted into heat and released from the skin.  

It’s recommended to use a sunscreen that has broad-spectrum protection, meaning that it blocks both UVA and UVB rays. These are the two types of UV rays that reach the earth. UVA has a longer wavelength and can pass through window glass. It penetrates deep into the skin and causes skin aging, wrinkles, and sunspots. UVB has a shorter wavelength and is blocked by window glass. It doesn’t penetrate as deeply as UVA but can damage the outer layers of skin, causing sunburn and blistering.  

What is PABA? 

PABA is natural compound that absorbs UVB rays. A key ingredient in early sunscreens, it was used by the U.S. military during the Second World War and gained popularity in commercial sunscreens. However, it was later found to cause skin irritation and has since been pulled from the market.  

In 2019, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) ruled that PABA was not generally recognized as safe and effective (GRASE) for use in sunscreens due to safety issues. Studies showed that PABA causes high rates of allergic reactions and skin irritation. It can also react negatively with commonly used medications.  

What ingredients are now commonly used in sunscreens? 

As of now, titanium dioxide and zinc oxide—used in physical sunscreens—are the only ingredients that are considered GRASE. The FDA is also calling for more data on twelve ingredients commonly used in chemical sunscreens before deciding whether they can be considered GRASE. These include:  

• Ingredients commonly used in the US: Ensulizole, octisalate, homosalate, octocrylene, octinoxate, oxybenzone, avobenzone. 
• Ingredients not frequently used in the US: Cinoxate, dioxybenzone, meradimate, padimate O, sulisobenzone. 

List adapted from the American Academy of Dermatology Association 

Can plant extracts provide sun protection? 

Emerging research suggests that plant extracts may provide protection against UV rays. Plants contain flavonoids, which are a type of natural UV filter. Flavonoids absorb UV wavelengths that fall within the range of UVA and UVB rays, which may make them promising sunscreen agents. Some flavonoids that have sparked interest recently are rutin and quercetin, which are found in plants such as ginkgo and dragon fruit. Studies have also shown that plant extracts from silvergrass and rambutan can enhance the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) values of sunscreens. Additionally, plant extracts also have antioxidant properties, which can help you avoid skin damage caused by UV exposure. That said, more research is still needed in this area since the FDA hasn’t these products and they ultimately may not provide adequate protection? 

So, are physical or chemical sunscreens better? 

Whether physical or chemical sunscreen is better boils down to personal preference. Ultimately, the best sunscreen is the one that you’re willing to use. Physical sunscreens are less likely to cause skin irritation and are a good option for sensitive skin, though they can leave a white cast. Chemical sunscreens, on the other hand, need time to absorb into the skin to work and could cause side effects like skin irritation. 

As a general rule, it’s recommended to use a sunscreen that has broad-spectrum protection, has a SPF value of 30 or more, and is water-resistant. While sunscreens with a higher-value SPF can block slightly more UVB, no sunscreen can completely block out all UVB rays. Regardless of their SPF value, sunscreens should be reapplied every two hours outdoors, even on cloudy days, and especially after swimming or sweating. Consider doing a patch test before applying the sunscreen to your whole body. This can help you understand if you’ll have any reactions to the product before fully committing.  

With new research on plant extracts and chemical sunscreens, there’s lots to keep up with. More developments are likely to emerge in the coming years, so stay tuned!